Monday, December 21, 2009

5.10 d (my current climbing obsession)

During the cold and snowy days in Chicago I find myself at a local climbing gym called Vertical Endeavor's. This is really a premier climbing gym in the Chicagoland area and has amazing sport-lead routes, top rope, auto-belay, and bouldering.


Currently I am working on a lead project, a 5.10d that hangs over "the bridge" and finishes at the top of a 30 foot vertical ascent.

I haven't had a route like this ever consume my energy and thoughts the way this route does. There are 9 clips (5 in the overhang area) to the anchors and I can get through the first 8 without a fall.

The roof section is all on jugs and even coming out of the overhung area isn't that bad. The problem is I'm so pumped that by the time I'm doing the 30 foot slightly overhanging vertical ascent I blow out before I reach the last clip and the anchors.

I've managed to finish this route in one-fall...but never got my red-point. The route that is currently in this arrangement will likely be there for another couple of weeks and my hope is to send it before then.

Really routes like this is why I started climbing and learning to lead. So I need to get this one before I move on!!!

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